FIRST we have to learn to wake up the wine. As he swirls a glass of Pouilly Fume in his hand Philippe Larue, director of l’Art du Vin, explains: “The wine has been sleeping – just like you – it needs to wake up. We are tickling all the elements to make them come alive.”
No-nonsense news reporter Shân Ross suddenly looks entranced – while Erikka Askkeland – business writer and renowned tough cookie – is wearing a dreamy expression.
Larue and his co-director Richard Bouglet have promised to initiate us into the art of tasting and appreciating fine wines – and it is clear pretty quickly we three are going to be putty in their hands.
Both French, Larue and Bouglet have run wine merchant l’Art du Vin for five years now and supply restaurants and pubs as well as running a mailorder business for private clients.
They promise to take us on: “a journey around the world in wine”.
But will we really learn anything about wine, or what we like – or is it all just likely to become a blur?
The Pouilly Fume, made with the Sauvignon grape, is first on the wine list.
An organic and biodynamic wine from a small producer in the Pouilly region, it is light as a feather – perfect for sipping with smoked salmon.
“I don’t think I have every tasted anything so delicate,” says Shân.
Next is a New Zealand white, also made with Sauvignon grapes – but this one is tropical, fruity, bursting with flavours such as passion fruit.
The point is to illustrate the importance of what the French call “terroir” – the territory where the wine is grown.
Bouglet says: “The grape variety is only 30 per cent of the story. Where it has come from and where it is made is also a big part of the story.
“We are not massive fans of the term old world and new world. There is just good and bad wine.”
The wine importers, who were based in Leith but have now relocated to Dunfermline, believe Scotland is one of the best places in the world to sell wine.
Larue says: “If you go to France people drink whatever wine is produced in their region.”
He tells us he first discovered Australian and New Zealand wines in Edinburgh – when he had a flat next to Oddbins. “It opened my mind. Wine is not all French.”
Bouglet adds: “The fact you don’t produce wine is good for a wine merchant – because it means you don’t have national prejudice.”
The pair are big fans of Spanish wines – and their next choice is an Albarino – the Artist series, which features a label with a cartoon of a cellarman.
Erikka is immediately converted. “I’m going to buy this,” she exclaims.
Then comes a white burgundy – an eccentric mixture of flavours and a wine made with no chemicals, all organic and without sulphur dioxide.
“It is not perfect but it has a special character”, says Larue. “This is why wines excite us.”
Next is Philippe’s baby – Cannonberg, Chenin Blanc – an “entry level” wine from South Africa – where l’Art du Vin are working with the growers to ensure a better quality of life for the women who work on the estates. The project was registered under the Fairtrade label but they found it too beaurocratic so decided to do it themselves.
Larue says: “When I first visited South Africa, I realised there were a lot of things that needed to be done.”
Money from Cannonberg has now paid for a nursery where children of estate workers can be better cared for.
Of all the wines, he says it is the one which means the most to him,
On to the reds and we taste a divine burgundy from a small estate. Bouglet says: “We try to find lesser-known wines from smaller villages.”
I am in love. Shân has completely lost the plot. “Maybe I should become a wine taster,” she says suddenly.
Larue is on a roll. “Wine is all about emotions, about pleasure. It gives you goose bumps.”
Bouglet is also getting passionate : “We think wine is one of the strongest counter arguments against globalisation.
“You go to any country in the world and you find Starbucks and McDonalds. There is standardisation. But the thing about wine is it is an agricultural product. It has its own character.”
They tell us that in Paris there is a huge trend towards natural wine bars, which sell organic and traditionally made wines. And that the latest methods of teaching wine appreciation don’t so much stress the technical aspects – oakiness, tannin, colour, nose and palate – as try to get tasters to tune into their emotional reactions to the drink.
Sometimes it is about knowing what you like. And with the Rioja, the Primitivo and the Shiraz we are on more familiar territory. The Rioja is instantly recognisable, the Primitivo lighter than the usual and the Shiraz strange and exotic.
By this time there is a lot of hand waving and rather too much laughter. The scientific nature of the experiment has been compromised by alcohol. We finish with a Maury – a sticky fortified wine which is the French answer to Port and the perfect wine for chocolate.
“That’s yummy,” says Shân. “Write that down.” Things are starting to disintegrate.
But we have learned a lot. We have been on an adventure. We have made new friends. We have indeed travelled the world in a bottle of wine.
And to give the last word to my esteemed colleague Ms Ross: “I have never heard the word passion, in Scotland, on a Wednesday night, before 10:30pm so many times in my life.”
What monsieur le sommelier advises…
1 Crisp white
Pouilly Fumé, Domaine Jonathan Pabiot, Loire, France 2011 £14.40
“Delicate and elegant” -– Erikka
2 Tropical and Zippy
Sauvignon Blanc, Little Beauty, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand 2010 - £13.05
“Basil and tropical fruit mmmm” -– Erikka
3 Peachy and fresh
Albariño, Abadia de San Campio, Artist Series, Rias Baixas, Spain 2010 - £15.45
“I’m going to hunt down some Albarinos” -– Erikka
4 Complex challenge
Saint Véran “Les Mandeliers”, Domaine Combier, Burgundy, France 2010 - £16.25
“Yeasty, unusual” -– Erikka
5 Philippe’s baby
Chenin Blanc, Cannonberg, Western Cape, South Africa 2010 - £6.20
“I could drink this” -– Erikka
6 Popular choice
Chorey Les Beaune “Les Beaumonts”, Domaine Arnoux, Burgundy, France 2009 - £18.55
“Silky on the tongue” -– Shân
7 Spicy and jammy
Primitivo, Spina di Bacco, Santi Dimitri, Salento, Italy 2009 - £9.05
“Lighter than usual but pretty meaty” -– Claire
8 hint of eucalyptus
Shiraz Mudgee, Lowe, New South Wales, Australia 2006 - £19.60
“Oh it’s delicious” -– Erikka.
9 Full And meaty
Rioja Crianza, Hacienda Valvares, Spain 2008 (not on the website but available on request £12.88)
“Oakilicious” -– Claire
10 Sweet treat
Maury, Mas Mudigliza, Roussillon, France 2009 - £21.15
“Yummy” -– Shân
All wines are available for purchase from http://www.aduv.co.uk/ l’Art du Vin also operate a personal sommelier service over the phone (01383 873 510) to help customers select the wines suited to their tastes, needs and budgets.